The closer the converter box is to your TV the less cost you’ll have in A/V cables. It’s much cheaper and easier to run a long coaxial cable from the antenna to the box than it is to run a long A/V cable from the box to the TV.

Connecting the DTV2 converter/tuner box to your 12-volt system is pretty easily done.

Your TV must have audio/video inputs, this is how the 12v converter box will connect.  The audio/video cables from the 12V converter are Female.

Getting Started :

1. Choose a location to install the 12Volt Converter Box and run a coaxial cable from your existing TV antenna to the converter box. You may also choose to use the included TV antenna. You may use coaxial connectors and additional cable to lengthen the included TV antennas cable up to 100′ (feet).
2. Run a set of A/V cables from the TV to the converter box. Make sure to leave enough cable at each end of the run to work with.
3. Find a suitable location for the included IR sensor that is within reach of it’s 9′(foot) cable. The IR sensor should be visible from the areas that you will be using your remote control. Run the cable from the desired location to the 12V converter box.

Working with the connection harness: In autos

1. Connect the Red(+) power wire to the vehicle ACC power. There should only be power to this wire when the vehicle ignition is in the ACC position.
2. Connect the Yellow(+) power wire to the vehicle 12Volt Battery (+). This should always have power. This if for the converter box memory of scans, language settings etc.
3. Connect the Black(-) power wire to the vehicle chassis or the 12Volt system Ground(-) location.
4. Connect the A/V cables from the 12V converter harness to your previously run set of Audio/Video Cables w/both male ends.

Working with the connection harness: Alternative Power

1. Connect the Red(+) & Yellow(+) power wires to the  12Volt Battery Positive (+) or the 12Volt system Positive(+) location capable of at least 2 amps.
2. Connect the Black(-) power wire to the 12Volt Battery Negative (-) or the 12Volt system Ground(-) location.
3. Connect the A/V cables from the 12V converter harness to your previously run set of Audio/Video Cables w/both male ends.

Bringing it All Together

1. Connect the coaxial cable from the included digital ready TV antenna (or your own broadcast TV antenna cable) to the Antenna In on the converter box.
2. Connect the IR sensor to the IR jack on the 12V converter box.
3. Connect the Wire harness plug to the 12V converter box.

DTV2 Connection Diagram

Choosing the Best CB Antenna for Your Vehicle

1. Taller CB antennas perform better than shorter CB antennas.

2. At least 2/3 (two / thirds) of the CB antenna/antennas should be above the vehicles roof. Measure from your mounting location to the top of the vehicle to determine which CB antenna length is best for you.

3. The top loaded (helical wire-wound) antennas are more effective than the center loaded and the center loaded antennas are more effective than the base loaded antennas.

Top loaded CB antennas have high current flowing along their entire length. Center loaded CB antennas have high current flowing over their lower portion and have low current flowing over their upper portion. A base loaded CB antenna has low current over it’s entire length.

While all these types of CB antennas can be tuned, the methods will vary.

Wire-Wound antennas without mechanical tuners can “Shortened” by removing some wire from the shaft tip. Wire-Wound CB antennas can be “Lengthened” by adding springs, quick disconnects, etc.

Fiberglass CB antennas that are too “Long” can be made shorter by removing some of the tip with a hacksaw. Fiberglass CB antennas that are too “Short” can be lengthened by adding springs, quick disconnects, etc.

Wire Whip CB antennas can be made “Longer” or “Shorter” by loosening the set screw/screws and sliding the whip up or down as needed.

When shopping for CB antennas you should think of how often your antenna might hit obstructions. CB antennas can be damaged if they clip a bridge, tree branch, road sign etc.

While a top loaded antenna is the best CB antenna choice, they are a bit more expensive and can be damaged more easily.

When installing a CB Radio antenna on a fiberglass or aluminum vehicle, you will need a no-ground-plane antenna system or co-phased antenna kit. The best results will be achieved when using one of these types of CB antennas on your vehicle.

CB Antennas | CB Radios

Failure to properly tune your CB antenna/antennas can damage your CB Radio. Failure to tune can also limit your transmittal and reception strengths. A properly tuned CB Radio system is a happy CB Radio system.

Learn to properly use an SWR meter and after your initial set up you should check your SWR once a month. Road and weather conditions can and will over time change your SWR.

Materials needed:

• An SWR meter
• A 3 foot section of coax cable

1. Disconnect the antenna cable from the back of the CB Radio. Connect the antenna cable to the coax antenna in-put on the back of the SWR meter. Use the 3 foot section of coax cable to connect the SWR meter coax antenna out-put to the CB Radio. ** On the SWR meter there should be several switches. These are: “REF” or “SWR”, “FWD” and “Set” or “Adjust”

2: Tune your CB Radio to channel 1(one) and set the SWR meter switch in the Forward “FWD” position. Hold the CB in transmit mode by pressing the PTT button on the mic. Ajust the SWR meter needle using the Set or Ajust knob on the meter until the needle is in alignment with the corresponding mark on the meter. Flip the switch to the Reference “REF” position. The meter is now showing your SWR on channel one. Take note of the value and quickly release the mic PTT button.

3: You will need to repeat step 2 on channel 19 & 40. Make sure you’re taking notes,
you’re gonna need them.

Reading the SWR Meter Results & Knowing What They Mean:
With an SWR reading of less than 2.0 on all three channels (1, 19 & 40) the CB Radio can be safely operated.

If the SWR meter is in the “Red Zone” on all three channels (1, 19 & 40), there is likely an electrical short in the coax antenna cable, connectors or the mounting stud was installed incorrectly. This may damage the CB Radio, do not operate the CB Radio until the problem is resolved.

If the SWR for channel 1 reads higher than the SWR on channel 40, the antenna/antennas are electrically “Short”. The CB antenna should be lengthened by adjusting the antenna or adding springs or quick disconnects etc. Adjustments should be made in 1/8″ increments when possible. You should also mark the antenna/antennas original position and the position of each adjustment along the way.

If the SWR for channel 40 reads higher than the SWR on channel 1, the antenna/antennas are electrically “Long”. The CB antenna should be shortened by adjusting the antenna/antennas. Some will actually need to be cut or modified to make them shorter. Adjustments should be made in 1/8″ increments when possible. You should also mark the antenna/antennas original position and the position of each adjustment along the way.

If after making the above corrections the SWR on all channels is about 2.0 but not in the “Red Zone”, the antenna cable may be of poor quality, the wrong length, etc.. The ground plane may be insufficient or you may have an ungrounded antenna mount.

CB Antennas | CB Radios

The Best FM Modulators require installation in the vehicle. The installation process is pretty simple and the outcome is very effective. These FM Modulators are installed “In-Line” with the vehicles AM/FM antenna.

This type of FM Modulator will block external FM broadcasts on the frequency that you select. Then using that same frequency it transmits it’s own signal straight into your vehicles stereo antenna. This leaves very little chance of interference  from local radio stations.

To do this you must gain access to the rear of the vehicle stereo and unplug the antenna cable from the stereo. In most cases the antenna will have a standard Motorola style plug and the stereo will too. In some vehicles an antenna adapter is needed to install an aftermarket AM/FM antenna, two(2) antenna adapters will be needed for this method. Semi-Trucks use the Motorola plug style so you won’t need any adapters.

On the FM Modulator there is an antenna input and an antenna output. Plug the vehicles AM/FM antenna into the FM Modulators antenna input jack. Next, plug the FM Modulators output antenna cable into the back of the stereo in the antenna input jack.

Vehicles that require an antenna adapter for aftermarket stereo installation will need an adapter before the FM Modulator. This converts the vehicles AM/FM antenna plug style into the “Aftermarket”/Motorola plug style and plugs directly into the FM Modulator. The second adapter converts from the “Aftermarket”/Motorola plug style back to the original plug style allowing the FM Modulator to be plugged into the vehicles stereo antenna input jack.

If you would like to find out ahead of time whether you’ll need antenna adapters or not Give Us a Call or visit http://www.metraonline.com. Click on the “Products” link and then on “Select a Vehicle”. Here you will find a list of parts that are available for your vehicle. Semi-Trucks will not be listed there. Semi-Trucks use the Motorola plug style so you need no adapters to install an FM Modulator.

To get power to the FM Modulator you’ll need to locate the ignition wire that runs into the vehicles stereo. Using a “T” tap to make a splice, attach the FM Modulators positive(+) power wire to the vehicles stereo ignition wire.

The best place to pick up a ground/negative(-) for the FM Modulator is the stereos negative(-) power wire. Once you have located this wire use a “T” tap to splice in the FM Modulators negative(-) wire.

Make sure to run the audio input cables/wire to some handy location in the vehicle. This is where you will be connecting your MP3 Player, Satellite Radio, TV Audio Outputs and more.

On the body of the FM Modulator select the FM frequency that you would like to dedicate to the input of your favorite audio devices. Once everything is all back together and the vehicle stereo is powered on it should be tuned to the FM frequency selected on the FM Modulator.

You should now be able to attach your audio device to the FM Modulator and hear your device playing Loud and Clear through the vehicle stereo speakers.

To determine which wire is positive and which is negative we will use a method commonly referred to as a “Pop Test”. The “Pop Test” uses one of your speakers and a 1.3V battery. This can be from “AAA” to “D” cell.

Before disconnecting the factory speaker from your vehicle; you should mark one of the speakers wires and the corresponding speaker wire terminal on the speaker with a permanent marker.

Now that the speaker wire and corresponding wire terminal are clearly marked, it’s safe to disconnect the speaker from the vehicle and sit it on the work bench. The speaker should be sitting on it’s magnet end with the front of the speaker facing upward.

For the next step you’ll need a steady hand and a sharp eye. Make sure there is noting that will interfere with the speaker cone moving up or down.

Touch the positive(+) terminal of the battery to the speakers wire terminal with your mark on it and the negative(-) terminal of the battery to the speaker wire terminal with no mark on it. This will make the speaker cone move either up or down.

If the speaker cone is drawn down toward the work bench the polarity is correct. Meaning your positive(+) speaker terminal is the one with your mark. However; if the speaker cone is pushed up this tells us that the polarity is reversed and that the terminal with your mark is the negative(-) speaker terminal.

Now that we have clearly identified which terminal on the speaker is positive(+) and which is negative(-) we can use the speaker itself to determine which of the vehicles speaker wires is positive(+) and which is negative(-).

Even if all of the speaker harness clips are identical, this process should be repeated for each of the speakers in the vehicle. Take nothing for granted, manufacturers do strange things from time to time.

You may need to “extend” the 1.3V batteries positive(+) terminal. Using electrical tape; attach a 3″-6″ piece of wire to the 1.3V batteries positive(+) terminal. The wire housing will need stripped at both ends so that it can make contact with the battery.

This is a pretty simple task and we’re confident that most folks should be able to accomplish this with little effort. This is not to say that anyone can do it, but it is pretty simple. Please follow along as we guide you through it.

Remove the external cover panel to access the motor. On 5616, four screws are located under the lid seal.

Write down the location of all wires before starting. Disconnect the motor wires only from the terminal block.

Take the cover off of the inside fan. Remove the fan from inside and outside of cooler and set aside for later use. Remove the two screw from the motor bracket. Remove the motor bracket and motor.

Before installing the new motor in the cooler, bend the two prongs on the new motor 90 degree (use the old motor for reference). Place the rubber bushing onto the motor.

Position the new motor along with the rubber bushing in the cooler cavity. Secure the motor with the motor mount bracket and screws.

Connect all wires. (Use the wiring diagram in the cooler “Instructions for Use” manual or your notes for reference.)

Put the fan back on the motor. Attach covers inside and outside cooler.

If you need more assistance please contact Coleman directly.

The Coleman Company, Inc.

3600 N. Hydraulic, Wichita, Kansas 67219. 1-800-835-3278

Need a Coleman Thermoelectric Cooler Replacement Motor?

Let’s say we have a 12Volt DC motor that we’d like to have spin in one direction sometimes and other times spin in the opposite direction. If we connect the motor’s positive power wire to a 12Volt battery’s positive terminal, and the motor’s negative power wire to the 12Volt battery’s negative terminal the motor would spin forward.
On the other hand:
If we connect the motor’s positive power wire to the 12Volt battery’s negative terminal and the motor’s negative power wire to the 12Volt battery’s positive terminal (otherwise known as “Reverse Polarity”) the motor will spin backward.

This can also be done for a 12Volt DC actuator. For example, a door lock actuator will trust outward with a straight connection to a 12Volt battery. When the polarity is reversed (actuator is hooked up “backwards” to the 12Volt battery) the actuator will be retracted inward. Connection and thrust directions may vary from model to model but the idea is the same for all two position 12Volt DC actuators.

So let’s hook-up that 6 terminal toggle switch!

The very first step is ALWAYS to make sure that your toggle switch is rated to handle the amount of power your DC motor or DC actuator will draw. If your motor is rated at 15 amps you will need a toggle that rated at or above 15 amps. It is normally a good idea to use a switch with a rating higher than what your motor needs. There’s just no sense in pushing the toggle to it’s limits and risking damage.

The second and likely the most obvious is to find the perfect location. We’ll leave this up to you. Just make sure to leave room for the wires and wire terminals you will use.

The third step should be to run the wiring to your 12Volt motor or 12Volt actuator. Connecting the toggle switch to your 12Volt battery should be the VERY LAST step.

Here is an example of how to hook-up either a 12Volt Motor or a 12Volt DC actuator. They are both done the same way.

6 Terminal Toggle Hook-Up

What it all boils down to is this, you will have two wires to hook-up to your 12Volt battery and two wires to hook-up to your motor or actuator. Actually using red and black wire helps to keep your head straight too.

Terminal wire A connects to terminal wire F and then to the positive lead of your 12Volt DC motor or DC actuator. Terminal wire B connects to terminal wire E and then to the negative lead of your 12Volt DC motor or DC actuator.

Now when the toggle is in the “Center” or “OFF” position it is not contacting either A-B or E-F. When the toggle is flipped forward the C terminal will internally make a connection to the A terminal, at the same time; the D terminal will internally make a connection to the B terminal. When the toggle is flipped back past “OFF” to the backward position the internal connections become C to E and D to F. For a better understanding of how toggle and rocker switches work; look for our Knowledge Base article on “How Toggle and Rocker Switches Work”.

When the switch is in the forward position the power is sent from the 12Volt battery to the DC motor or DC actuator in a “straight” fashion.  e.g. Positive to Positive and Negative to Negative. When the switch is in the backward position the power is sent from the 12Volt battery to the DC motor or DC actuator in a “flipped” fashion. e.g. The battery’s Positive gets connected to the motor’s Negative and the battery’s Negative gets connected to the motor’s Positive. Sounds a bit backwards but that’s the idea, isn’t it?

It shouldn’t matter which end of the switch body you consider “A-B” so long as the opposite end is treated as “E-F”.

This can also be done with a 2 position switch but it will always be in an “ON” position. This would likely not be good for dc actuators or any other dc powered item that you wouldn’t want to run continuously.

In addition: If your application only requires power to be delivered for a short period of time you will most likely want to use a “Momentary” type switch. If your application requires that power be delivered continuously over a long period of time you will likely want to use a “Constant” type switch.

Toggle Switches | Wire Terminals

1. Loosen the two screws on the terminal board cover on the bottom of the antenna. This will expose a threaded coaxial receptacle and three special screw-type terminals.
2. Screw the supplied coaxial cable’s lead-in connector onto the threaded terminal. Caution: Be sure the center conductor of the cable is in the hole of the F-connector before tightening.
3. Your cable may have either Yellow/Black/White wires or Red/Black/Blue rotator wires.

Note: Only loosen clamping terminals up to two turns, as backing them out further can cause the screws to become unattached from their internal mounts. Fasten the Yellow or Red rotator control wire to terminal 1, the Black wire to terminal 2, and the White or Blue wire to terminal 3. Insert the wire between the upper and lower
clamps of the terminal body. Tighten the screw as shown.

4. Replace the terminal cover so that the coaxial cable comes out through the notch. Tighten the terminal cover screws. This will clamp the rotator cable in place.

1. Attach the antenna mounting bracket to the four slotted metal inserts on the bottom of the antenna using the four screws and lockwashers provided. (Do not unscrew recessed metal inserts. They hold the internal motor in place.)
2. Insert the U-bolt into the mounting bracket using the two washers and hex nuts. Do not tighten.

Boat or RV—The optional RV/boat mount brackets will let you install the HDMS9100 antenna on your RV or boat. It is recommended that several locations be tried to find the one that provides optimum performance before you permanently install the antenna.

Mount the antenna as high as practical and as far away from metal objects as possible. If the interior areas of the vehicle or boat are substantially enclosed or surrounded by metal surfaces, an exterior mounting location must be selected. For RVs with metal roofs, the antenna should be mounted at least six inches above the roof surface. Your optional mount brackets are the correct height. For boats, best reception will be obtained if the antenna is mounted above the boat’s highest deck or cabin structure, RV/boat mount kits are aailable to do these installations.

Note: Mount the antenna before you make any receiver connections or plug it into its power source. Indoors—You can install the antenna on a vertical mast in the attic, closet or other out-of-the-way location, or suspended from an attic support with a wall-mount bracket. You can also insert the three antenna legs into the matching holes on the underside of the antenna so that they angle outward to form a tripod support. Then place the antenna on a shelf in a closet where it cannot fall or become damaged.

Outdoors—Install the antenna outdoors away from trees or obstructions. (Higher frequencies are affected by obstructions.) Mount the antenna on a mast and secure it by tightening the hex nuts evenly onto the U-bolt. You can also use our off-set J-Mount model UAM9000 (optional). Use a wall-thru tube to neatly route the cable thru walls.

Make sure the installation of the antenna conforms to local electrical and building codes, zoning requirements and other applicable laws and regulations. If you are unsure, contact your local electrician or building inspector for assistance. You will need the additional hardware to install your RV/Boat mounting brackets:
8 – #10 screws (OR 8 each of #10-32 bolts, nuts and 1¾” diameter washers) [screws or bolts of appropriate length depending on roof material thickness]

Gasket for cable

Cable clips (if necessary)

Caulking compound

Tools recommendations: Pencil, Tape measure, Electric hand drill, Drill bits (including a ½” drill bit), Screwdriver and/or adjustable wrench.

1. Select a location for the antenna. For added support, locate the antenna mount so that at least four of the eight #10 mounting screws will go into roof studs. An alternative method is to use eight #10-32 bolts with backup washers and nuts.
2. Make cable connections to the Mini-State Antenna as described in the Mini-State Antenna Installation Manual.
3. Mount both of the mounting brackets to the Mini-State Antenna using the four #10-32 screws and lock washers provided with the antenna. Position antenna on mounting brackets so that when installed, the arrow marking the front of the antenna will be facing the front of the vehicle with the antenna cable toward the rear.
4. Select a convenient location to mount the antenna, and mark the position of the eight mounting holes on roof using the mounting brackets with antenna attached as a template.
5. Drill the eight mounting holes through the roof material using the appropriate size drill bit for the hardware being used.
6. Apply caulking compound around mounting holes on underside of mount, and attach mount to roof using #10 hardware and tighten with screwdriver or wrench.
7. Select a convenient location for antenna cable entry and drill a ½” diameter hole in that location.
8. Feed cable through the ½” hole using a gasket and caulk at the entry point, and using cable clips as necessary to support the cable.
9. Run cable along interior of RV to desired location of Mini- State power supply unit, and make connections.

The VESA Standard defines mounting interfaces, hole patterns and associated cable/power supply locations for LCD/TFT monitors, plasma displays and other flat panel devices. Comrac monitor arms are designed to fit this standard, to make monitor attachment quick and easy.

The most common interface for VESA compliant monitors are those equipped with either a 100mm x 100mm or a 75mm x 75mm mounting hole pattern.Our arms attach to both standards with ease. Plasma and other large screens may be designed to the newer 200mm x 100mm or 200mm x 200mm configuration, or the large 400mm x 600mm. Some of our solutions are also suitable for these.

There should be 4 screw-holes in a square pattern, 4mm in diameter, usually located in the center or towards the bottom of any monitor. Fortunately most models from most manufacturers are now made to this standard. The holes may be recessed (and therefore a universal 75mm/100mm fitting will not be suitable for a 75mm VESA monitor), or may be hidden by the original monitor stand – removable unless there are associated electronics in the stand.

Finding a suitable mount for your requirements should be a straightforward process in most instances. Common VESA Patterns include but are not limited to:75mm x 75mm, 100mm x 100mm,100mm x 200mm, 200mm x 200mm, 400mm x 200mm, 600mm x 400mm, 800mm x 400mm