1. Loosen the two screws on the terminal board cover on the bottom of the antenna. This will expose a threaded coaxial receptacle and three special screw-type terminals.
2. Screw the supplied coaxial cable’s lead-in connector onto the threaded terminal. Caution: Be sure the center conductor of the cable is in the hole of the F-connector before tightening.
3. Your cable may have either Yellow/Black/White wires or Red/Black/Blue rotator wires.

Note: Only loosen clamping terminals up to two turns, as backing them out further can cause the screws to become unattached from their internal mounts. Fasten the Yellow or Red rotator control wire to terminal 1, the Black wire to terminal 2, and the White or Blue wire to terminal 3. Insert the wire between the upper and lower
clamps of the terminal body. Tighten the screw as shown.

4. Replace the terminal cover so that the coaxial cable comes out through the notch. Tighten the terminal cover screws. This will clamp the rotator cable in place.

1. Attach the antenna mounting bracket to the four slotted metal inserts on the bottom of the antenna using the four screws and lockwashers provided. (Do not unscrew recessed metal inserts. They hold the internal motor in place.)
2. Insert the U-bolt into the mounting bracket using the two washers and hex nuts. Do not tighten.

Boat or RV—The optional RV/boat mount brackets will let you install the HDMS9100 antenna on your RV or boat. It is recommended that several locations be tried to find the one that provides optimum performance before you permanently install the antenna.

Mount the antenna as high as practical and as far away from metal objects as possible. If the interior areas of the vehicle or boat are substantially enclosed or surrounded by metal surfaces, an exterior mounting location must be selected. For RVs with metal roofs, the antenna should be mounted at least six inches above the roof surface. Your optional mount brackets are the correct height. For boats, best reception will be obtained if the antenna is mounted above the boat’s highest deck or cabin structure, RV/boat mount kits are aailable to do these installations.

Note: Mount the antenna before you make any receiver connections or plug it into its power source. Indoors—You can install the antenna on a vertical mast in the attic, closet or other out-of-the-way location, or suspended from an attic support with a wall-mount bracket. You can also insert the three antenna legs into the matching holes on the underside of the antenna so that they angle outward to form a tripod support. Then place the antenna on a shelf in a closet where it cannot fall or become damaged.

Outdoors—Install the antenna outdoors away from trees or obstructions. (Higher frequencies are affected by obstructions.) Mount the antenna on a mast and secure it by tightening the hex nuts evenly onto the U-bolt. You can also use our off-set J-Mount model UAM9000 (optional). Use a wall-thru tube to neatly route the cable thru walls.

Make sure the installation of the antenna conforms to local electrical and building codes, zoning requirements and other applicable laws and regulations. If you are unsure, contact your local electrician or building inspector for assistance. You will need the additional hardware to install your RV/Boat mounting brackets:
8 – #10 screws (OR 8 each of #10-32 bolts, nuts and 1¾” diameter washers) [screws or bolts of appropriate length depending on roof material thickness]

Gasket for cable

Cable clips (if necessary)

Caulking compound

Tools recommendations: Pencil, Tape measure, Electric hand drill, Drill bits (including a ½” drill bit), Screwdriver and/or adjustable wrench.

1. Select a location for the antenna. For added support, locate the antenna mount so that at least four of the eight #10 mounting screws will go into roof studs. An alternative method is to use eight #10-32 bolts with backup washers and nuts.
2. Make cable connections to the Mini-State Antenna as described in the Mini-State Antenna Installation Manual.
3. Mount both of the mounting brackets to the Mini-State Antenna using the four #10-32 screws and lock washers provided with the antenna. Position antenna on mounting brackets so that when installed, the arrow marking the front of the antenna will be facing the front of the vehicle with the antenna cable toward the rear.
4. Select a convenient location to mount the antenna, and mark the position of the eight mounting holes on roof using the mounting brackets with antenna attached as a template.
5. Drill the eight mounting holes through the roof material using the appropriate size drill bit for the hardware being used.
6. Apply caulking compound around mounting holes on underside of mount, and attach mount to roof using #10 hardware and tighten with screwdriver or wrench.
7. Select a convenient location for antenna cable entry and drill a ½” diameter hole in that location.
8. Feed cable through the ½” hole using a gasket and caulk at the entry point, and using cable clips as necessary to support the cable.
9. Run cable along interior of RV to desired location of Mini- State power supply unit, and make connections.

The VESA Standard defines mounting interfaces, hole patterns and associated cable/power supply locations for LCD/TFT monitors, plasma displays and other flat panel devices. Comrac monitor arms are designed to fit this standard, to make monitor attachment quick and easy.

The most common interface for VESA compliant monitors are those equipped with either a 100mm x 100mm or a 75mm x 75mm mounting hole pattern.Our arms attach to both standards with ease. Plasma and other large screens may be designed to the newer 200mm x 100mm or 200mm x 200mm configuration, or the large 400mm x 600mm. Some of our solutions are also suitable for these.

There should be 4 screw-holes in a square pattern, 4mm in diameter, usually located in the center or towards the bottom of any monitor. Fortunately most models from most manufacturers are now made to this standard. The holes may be recessed (and therefore a universal 75mm/100mm fitting will not be suitable for a 75mm VESA monitor), or may be hidden by the original monitor stand – removable unless there are associated electronics in the stand.

Finding a suitable mount for your requirements should be a straightforward process in most instances. Common VESA Patterns include but are not limited to:75mm x 75mm, 100mm x 100mm,100mm x 200mm, 200mm x 200mm, 400mm x 200mm, 600mm x 400mm, 800mm x 400mm

For this example we will use 16ga wire, it will work best with the MPPS-16ES add-on 12-volt outlet by MarinePro. Whether you start “feeding” from the power source or from the install site is entirely up to you. The higher location is usually much easier. So we will trim our positive and negative wires to the appropriate length and tape the ends together side by side. This will provide a nice clean end to begin feeding through the wall, cabinet, body panel etc. Work these wires gently around existing parts and pieces that might be in the way. Once you have the wires run it’s a good idea to go over and wire tie them into place or secure them somehow.  Do not connect them to live power just yet!

12 Volt 6' Extension Power Cord with Cigarette Lighter Socket

Work these wires gently around existing parts and pieces that might be in the way. Once you have the wires run it’s a good idea to go over and wire tie them into place or secure them somehow.  Do not connect them to live power just yet!

An inline fuse is not necessary but we recommend that you use one. Make sure that you can get to it easily in the future. For 16ga wire the fuse size should be no more than 22amps.

We are using a 12-volt blade fuse holder by Bussmann which can easily handle our 22amp max draw. Rather than crimping we prefer to use solder and heat shrink tubing when connecting our inline fuse. We will also use solder and heat shrink tubing when we connect the 16ga wire we have run to the fuse block or battery.

Once you have the wires and fuse holder soldered up it’s time to hook it up to live power. Using the appropriate crimp ends for your fuse block or 12-volt power distribution block prepare the positive wire end. The positive wire end should be plugged into an available auxiliary fuse slot in the fuse block or distribution block. The negative wire should be connected last and should be hooked up to the vehicles chassis or another location that is grounded to the chassis.

It’s now time to fuse this set up and test it! Choose a fuse close to 20 amps to use here. The socket and wiring can handle it. Once the fuse is in test the new 12-volt outlet with a multi-meter. The center is positive and the outer walls of the outlet are the negative. Once you verify that there is good power there, plug something in! Try something small and inexpensive first like a cellphone charger.

Congratulations! You now have an additional 12-volt auxiliary power outlet.

The normal cause of engine noise in the stereo system is the ground. In any 12 volt system there is a 12volt + and a 12volt -. Often times a vehicle manufacturer will ground all of the dash instruments to one central location. This is great for them but bad for car stereo enthusiasts. When we hook up our new stereo we often times (if done properly) will use an installation wire harness. This wire harness will match up to the vehicles wiring exactly. So your ground and power are coming from the fuse block and a central ground location (vehicle standard).

A simple solution can usually fix this engine noise problem. Change the stereos ground location. Most times this can be done and un-done(if it doesn’t help) very easily. Behind the stereo will be anywhere from 10 to maybe 16 wires coming out of the stereo into a wire harness clip. Between the stereo and the first wire harness clip you will need to cut the ground (Black 12V-) wire.

This will break the ground and the stereo will not turn on at this point. The part of the wire that is coming from the back of the stereo will need to be lengthened and run to an alternate grounding location. Most of the time there is a bare metal dash frame under the upholstery that you will see when the stereo is removed from the dash.

With a digital multi-meter in hand you may test for a good ground source. Make sure to set the meter to test for continuity. You can make sure that the meter is set correctly by touching the lead ends together, this should give a beep or chirp from the meter letting you know that there is continuity. Clip one of the meter leads to a known good ground (somewhere in the door jam usually works) and then you may begin looking inside the dash cavity for a ground location.

Once you have a beep or chirp from the meter you know you have found a ground location. We’ll only know that this is a good location or not once the ground is hooked up and we turn the stereo on. Until then, cross your fingers and hope for the best. Hooking up the stereos ground wire to the new ground location is up to you. Every situation is different so you may need a crimp end or some other modifications inside the dash cavity to get the ground wire hooked up.

Just changing the stereos ground location will often resolve the engine noise problem. When this doesn’t work we resort to a “Ground Loop Isolator” or “Inline Noise Suppressor”. There are a few different styles that are used for different applications.
There are noise suppressors that are used in the power line, in the RCA/audio cable lines and some with 3.5mm stereo cable input and out put. You must determine which is right for your application.

Some stereos will only create this whining when there is an auxiliary audio input used. These will usually be something like an MP3 player. There are ground loop isolators for use with MP3 players.

Please click the following link to shop for an inline noise suppressor or ground loop isolator.

Well it’s not always that easy. Let’s say that we want to hook up a 12 volt heater to the same 12 volt outlet that we are running a 12 volt coffee maker from. Each of these items need about 20amps. On their own they’re fine, together they will draw around 40amps. This is a lot of power through a standard 12 volt outlet. Most cigarette lighter sockets are fused for just 20amps.

Some might think that inserting a larger fuse in the vehicles fuse box will let them draw more power. They would be right but this is not recommended. Vehicle manufacturers only use wire large enough in diameter (wire gauge) to handle the power allowed by the fuse size.

If we simply insert a larger fuse we will likely melt the wires supplying power to the outlet. There is also a very great danger of fire.

The proper way to “insert a larger fuse” would be to first figure out how much power you need. Do this by looking up the items power specifications and doing a little math.

Wire size required for amps desired is as follows:
12Ga wire up to 41amps
13Ga wire up to 35amps
14Ga wire up to 32amps
15Ga wire up to 28amps
16Ga wire up to 22amps
17Ga wire up to 19amps
18Ga wire up to 16amps
19Ga wire up to 14amps
20Ga wire up to 11amps

So after we have a roll of the proper size wire and a fuse we can get to work!

We must replace the positive and the negative wires powering the 12 volt outlet with the new heavier gauge wire. Cut a length of wire that will reach the vehicles fuse box from the 12 volt outlet. On the back of the outlet we’ll find a two wires attached to the 12 volt outlet. The center wire is Positive(+) and the outer wire is Negative(-). We will replace both with our new heavier gauge wire.

Once that is complete we would insert our new larger fuse into the fuse block slot that will fee the outlet. We need to test the outlet now with our digital multimeter to make sure that it has power. On verification we would try something small and inexpensive like a cell phone charger. Once we see that it works we can begin trying out our larger items.

We must keep an eye on the temperature of the 12 volt outlet now. We’re drawing more amps than originally intended by the manufacturer so we just need to make sure that it’s not getting hot. A hot 12 volt outlet is a bad sign.

You should always have an automotive professional perform the tasks outlined here. If you do not have a strong background in automotive wiring and electrical equipment you should not attempt the tasks outlined here.

The deep cycle (or motive) type is designed to continuously provide power for long periods of time (for example in a trolling motor for a small boat, auxiliary power for a recreational vehicle, or traction power for a golf cart or other battery electric vehicle). They can also be used to store energy from a photo voltaic array or a small wind turbine. They usually have thicker plates in order to have a greater capacity and survive a higher number of charge/discharge cycles. The energy to weight ratio, or specific energy, is in the range of 30 Wh/kg (108 kJ/kg).

Batteries intended for SLI systems are intended to deliver a heavy current for a short time, and to have a relatively low degree of discharge on each use. They have many thin plates,thin separators between the plates, and may have a higher specific gravity electrolyte to reduce internal resistance. Deep-cycle batteries have fewer, thicker plates and are intended to have a greater depth of discharge on each cycle, but will not provide as high a current on heavy loads.

Some battery manufacturers claim their batteries are dual purpose (starting and deep cycling).

In normal automotive service the vehicle’s engine-driven alternator powers the vehicle’s electrical systems and restores charge used from the battery during engine cranking. When installing a new battery or recharging a battery that has been accidentally discharged completely, one of several different methods can be used to charge it. The most gentle of these is called trickle charging. Other methods include slow-charging and quick-charging, the latter being the harshest.

Batteries should be monitored and periodically charged if in storage, to retain their capacity. Batteries intended to be stored should be fully charged, cleaned of corrosion deposits, and left in a cool dry environment. High temperatures increase the self discharge rate and plate corrosion. Lead-acid batteries must always be kept in a fully charged condition. the terminal voltage can be measured as an indication of state of charge. Batteries may be charged periodically by a constant voltage method, or attached to a “float” charger.